3 MAFW Favourites

1. Charlie Brown: This coat-dress is so fresh and oh so stylish! The black and white sleeves compliment well to the dress. As a matter of fact we’d like to get hold of the whole collection now! (Click on images to enlargen)

2. Kirrily Johnston: What an excellent show and what a genius she is to match a cobalt blue knitted mini jacket with equally bright nail varnish! The bright tangerine shoes add an interesting touch to the rest of the outfit.

3. Camilla and Marc: Yes, we know we weren’t too impressed the other day when we didn’t get to see them, though ever since last year’s show, Camilla and Marc have been our Aussie favourite designers. This blue and white stripy dress is a perfect summer dress; fun, original and totally gorgeous. Take a look at the rest of their collection, and you’ll see what we mean about this sister-and-brother duo...

Thank You…and Thank You Again

Oh Phu-lease... get over it! While we all know producing a collection is like giving birth, and taking a bow on the runway is like winning an Oscar, the gut-spilling in the program notes is becoming increasingly extensive. Here’s to the twice-removed aunts, and the person they met five years ago at a bus stop, wearing a pink frilly jumper. Oh, don’t forget, the friend-of-a-friend who while in Paris once saw John Galliano in the distance...

Cohen et Sabine

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Designer show: Cohen et Sabine
Location: Billich Gallery
Time: 12.00 noon, 29 April
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You get a flavour of what you’re about to see, when you read through the collection leaflet before a fashion show. This afternoon at Cohen et Sabine the music section was full of hippie references; Crosby Still Nash & Young, Fleetwood Mac, and Jimmy Hendrix. Don’t get us wrong; we love these musicians, but in a fashion world where new creativity, image, and the overall message are larger than anything else, hippie referrals made in 2006 aren’t an awful lot of good. Up until the show starts, we’re still hoping that we’re foolishly mistaken. But as caftan dresses and silk embellished poncho tops appear, they’re already playing Hair at full blast (yawn). Didn’t we leave this in 2005?

coolchiq on ABC.net.au

“ When she's not at a show, she's writing about one. Harking from Sweden, having spent some time in the UK Petra Sallstrom - aka coolchiq - is now in Sydney studying fashion design...” Read the rest of the article about coolchiq here: Interview with the blogette

Bowie

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Designer show: Bowie
Location: Cargo Hall
Time: 3pm, 28 April
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A 3-minute taxi ride from Chifley Plaza back to Circular Quay may seem a tad over-the-top under normal circumstances. But think 6 inch high heels, and the same route walking becomes a painful nightmare. Although we’d taken a break since Goot’s early show this morning, ‘The Fashion Week Symptoms’*) were evident as we walked into the showroom. Bowie was next on the agenda; a well-travelled designer, who has been based in Surry Hills since the launch in 1999.

His collection, called Pocahontas, brings out both classic appearances and a unique twist.
When the show begins, a surprise awaits us. Instead of a rather anonymous backdrop wall where models escape to undress, a window opens up to the harbour. As we enjoy the fresh smell of sea air, famous silhouettes of the Opera house, blue water and sailing boats appear in our vision. Perhaps Bowie had taken a cue from the costumes in Master and Commander? A nautical theme was certainly the inspiration today.

Guys – tanned and muscular - were dressed like merchant sea men in stripy mid-waist trousers, low-necked shirts and waistcoats in navy and light grey. Girls, with romantic tousled hair, looked as though they were windswept from a long day out at sea. With all the traditional nautical colours, we were treated to some unexpected positive surprises of cerise mixed with red.

Josh Goot

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Designer show: Josh Goot
Location: Chifley Plaza, Sydney
Time: 9am, 28 April
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Looking immaculate early in the morning is a hard ask for most people, but when a highly acclaimed fashion show requires our attendance, an early rise seems less tedious. Josh Goot was the winner of the LMFF designer award in 2005, we made a brief comment about it here. Onto his third collection in total, the show we’re attending today is a show we’re really excited to see. Expectations from 2005 are high; it’s not every day a fashion designer gets to showcase his virgin collection at an individual show at MAFW. Not every day do they make it to the cover of Women’s Wear Daily either.

Chifley Plaza is the location this morning. The showroom – a perfect location for Goot – recalls a feeling of an open spaced art studio where windows and sunlight brighten up the show. Goot’s signature pieces, a futuristic silver jersey range, are as unmistakable as they are weirdly wonderful. An introduction today is a light merino viscose blend, which has been developed especially for this collection.

Key colours are eggshell to light grey, as well as Goot's 'trademark silver'. Pale, almost washed-out shades of pink, apricot, yellow and green are brought out to give the 90’s 'gym gear' a bit of revival. Super high heels – the models struggled to walk – gave the sporty appearance an extra tweak. Worn by the girl- next-door, you wouldn’t look twice at any of this, but think Samantha Harris, and it all seems hipper than hip. Considering Goot wins his fans from the slouchy, sporty and comfortable habitat, our tag line “Style is everything, comfort is nothing” is a place where he won’t gain many supporters.

You Know You’re In The Middle of Fashion Week When…

... You’ve got blisters on your feet, but keep wearing excruciatingly high heels
... Getting ready to go out in the morning takes 1 hour longer than usual
... A taxi ride 100 meters seems a perfectly normal choice
... You consider Red Bull and San Pellegrino your staple diet
... Comments like “Do you know who I am?!” is as often heard as “G’day mate”!
... You’ve got 32 missed phone calls ‘coz you’ve forgotten to switch your phone on between shows
... Nothing you wear seems fashionable enough
... You know the names of all of the usual front row people, but have trouble remembering your landline phone number

Camilla and Marc-atastrophe

There are delegate passes and then there are delegate passes... Ours today, would most likely come under the category ‘scumbag-class’ delegate. Picture if you will our sense of humour when, after 45 minutes queuing up in the cold, they announce that the showroom is full and no more delegates are let in... Along with 150 other scumbag-class ticket holders, we watch the show from the wide-screen tv monitor outside the hall. For any other show, we wouldn’t bat an eye-lid over this, but for this particular show – Camilla and Marc – we were deeply disappointed by the shortage of space; especially as we had been particularly invited. It was The Show of the week we’d been looking forward to most out of all. Though even judging from the broadcasted collection, their fabulous super minimalist approach is one that we’ll keep on adoring for another season or two. Camilla and Marc can simply do no wrong.

Oh, The Joy Of Fashion Media...

Sharp tongues at Harpers Bazaar's daily 'SPY' paper have decided that no one - not even Lisa Ho - can get away with an uneventful collection on the runway. As a matter of fact it did bring back a few déjà vu moments from last year.

Bettina Liano

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Designer show: Bettina Liano
Location: Harbour Room
Time: 11am, 27 April
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1980 was not just the year when Blondie’s Call Me was number one on the US Music chart... It was also the year when Bettina Liano was launched. Back then it was the simple, draped jersey dresses that caught fashionistas attention.

2006 we’d associate Bettina Liano with skinny jeans, and a romantic yet rocky attitude. A clear sign of this was the excellent music choice for the show; remixes of Jimi Hendrix and AC/DC contributed to the brilliant atmosphere in the room. Liano’s Cult Romantics collection is a modern take on the 60’s rock and deco glamour (though 'glam' is hardly the word that springs to mind when you think of Hendrix and the Young brothers' image).

Much like Charlie Brown yesterday, the colour palette was strong; blood red, rustic gold and metallic undertones were a contrast against crispy white and black. Flirty chambermaid-style apron tops and high waisted swing skirts played big parts of the show. A nice touch was the eye-catching, bright red, low-cut boots, launched as part her new accessory line. We can see ourselves coming back for more of this.

Lisa Ho

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Designer show: Lisa Ho
Location: Town Hall, corner of Park & Market Street, Sydney
Time: 9pm, 26 April
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It's 9pm, and we’ve already attended 5 shows, but we’d be fools if we’d miss an invite to a Lisa Ho show. Not merely because we love her work, and find her dresses incredibly beautiful, but because of the fabulous way a Lisa Ho show is usually set up. Last year we were surrounded by live songbirds, and plunging green plants hanging off the ceiling; it had the atmosphere of Lord of the Rings. Tonight, again inside Sydney’s Town Hall, the scene is contemporary with live butterflies placed around the entrance hall... Sydney’s elite fashion crowd is looking hotter and more glamorous than ever. Slinky evening dresses. Silks. Metallic-embroidered multi-fabrics with abstract designs... So what’s new we hear you scream? Well, it’s all so gorgeous, who cares? And how Adam Worling controlled the crowd again this year we’ll never know... The peasants are revolting! Let them eat cake!

Alannah Hill

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Designer show: Alannah Hill
Location: Harbour Room, Passenger Terminal
Time: 8pm, 26 April
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When a fashion designer gets editorials from Vogue Living inspired by her, you know it’s a sign of a developing signature work. To us, her collections are almost a caricature of her own designs, with the overdose of frills, lace, sherbet pink and burgundy velvets. The type and kind of which you’d never even imagine in the finest Louisiana bordello. Where this collection was different from her past shows was the brave usage of more solid colours – particularly at the beginning of the show… Scary black, pure white, blood red and eco-friendly green. A beautiful first for her, which unfortunately dissolved into her traditional pretty curtain-fabric flowers (lovely though they may be). Floral – but thank goodness it’s not Laura Ashley.

Aurelio Costarello

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Designer show: Aurelio Costarello
Location: Billich Gallery, The Rocks, Sydney
Time: 6pm, 26 April
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When Fashion Buyer Belinda Seper can’t get back stage quickly enough to secure a few garments, you can smell success a long way off. After a few season’s break from Fashion Week, Costarella returned last year with a breakthrough collection. It was heavily detailed and embellished, but the most famous item turned out to be a silk organza striped bolero, made from a Victorian mosquito net. Luckily enough, there were no mosquitoes to be worried about this evening. Costarello loves his intricate patchwork corset tops, jet embroidery, and raw linen. The Billich Gallery was transformed today from art to chic... From calm open-spaced culture, to packed debutantes and paparazzi. But most obviously, from $50,000 paintings to fashion goodie-bags containing MAC make-up, Goldwell hair-gel, and an apple - but it was worth it.

Charlie Brown

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Designer show: Charlie Brown
Location: Cargo Hall, Passenger terminal
Time: 11pm, 26 April
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First day of the fashion week is always exciting. In addition to this, we love attending shows of the designers that we're already fond of (last year's review is here). Charlie Brown has become synonymous with bringing in international faces to her shows. Last year it was Jade Jagger who escorted Charlie Brown onto the compulsory podium walk. This year, the UK beauty queen Lily Cole was the prime focus. The collection had a good balance of structure and volume. Heavy jersey balloon dresses and tailored, finely cut ytrium dresses (much like the Roland Mouret design), were sent out one by one. Colours were rather striking; red, yellow and black, dominated the whole collection. It all felt new and fresh and original in a way, though the suggestion to wear black glittery leggings is a theme the northern hemisphere tired of ages ago. Stripes, both narrow and wide, covered mini-bolero jackets, pencil skirts and dresses. The plain, almost nude faces chosen complimented Lily Coles’ firy red hair, which looked gorgeous against striking colours.

A Pre-Fashion Show Moment

Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay, Sydney. Considering the usual bunch of people you’d see here most days of the year (tourists chasing the perfect shot of the Opera house..), the area looks totally different today; never have so many high heels been seen on such a small area. Last year, the queues to the delegates’ area were enormous. Today, we’re joining a relatively short and structured queue. None of this mad rock-concert-elbow-in-your-face-kinda-feeling, which is a real compliment for a big event like this (well done, IMG Fashion!). With a slightly cool autumn temperature in Sydney (+16C), the weather seems perfect. We’ll be on our feet all day so we feel pretty lucky to have left the Australian baking hot summer behind us. The first show were attending - Charlie Brown, is due to take place in a few minutes time. Once out from the show, we’ll be updating the site as we go along. Oh, you want to know what's inside the goodie bag? May's issue of Marie Claire, delicious Ferrero Rocher chocolates, a free meal token at Wagamama, 2 pairs of Fabfeet cushions, a Mercedes Benz note pad & pen, Schwarzkopf hair styling strips, and a MAC lipgloss. Voila! We're off!

MAC Chinese Dress Exhibition

Sky Vodka cocktails, Mumm Champagne, and truffles were on the menu when MAC launched the Chinese Dress Exhibition in Sydney’s China Town last night. The travelling exhibition, kicking off the official opening of Sydney's fashion week, is one that first debuted in Shanghai in October 2005 for the launch of MAC in China. Since then, it has opened up the fashion week in NY too. The elaborate makeup applications took up to eight hours to apply on the nude models, who then posed in front of backdrops at the cocktail party. Considering the rather cold room temperature, you have to give credit to the models who wore nothing but extremely high heels. No doubt a foot massage, a sauna and some hot jasmine tea is in order today.

Répondez S’il Vous Plaît

With invitations pouring in every day, we’re excited to see the opening of the fashion week on Wednesday. But tonight we’re off to do something else... We’re attending the M·A·C Chinese Dress Exhibition in Chinatown. M·A·C Cosmetics, being one of the major sponsors of the event, will officially kick off Mercedes Australian Fashion Week tonight. A live exhibition of the Qi Pao is held (Qi Pao is the classic Chinese Dress), but instead of a normal presentation of beatiful fabrics, the dresses we'll see tonight are created entirely with M·A·C makeup products painted directly on nude models... Sounds fun, doesn't it? Expect a filtered report tomorrow.

Scottish Fashion Awards

Hoots mon! Not only do they drink scotch and chase haggis round the fields dressed in sporrans and kilts... They also contribute to tartan, cashmere and wool designs throughout the world of fashion (let’s not forget Vivienne Westwood’s use of the Royal Stuart). Moreover, they have the Scottish Fashion Awards coming up. The nation is presenting promising up-and-coming talents, alongside veteran fashion figures. Some of the categories include designers, retailers, models, textile manufacturers and fashion communicators. Set at Stirling Castle, this is due to be a hoot of a night. Och aye the noo!

Scottish Fashion Awards Designer Of The Year
Brian Rennie, Creative Director, Escada
Jonathan Saunders, Jonathan Saunders Collection
Graeme Black, Creative Director For Salvatore Ferragamo
April Crichton, Creative Director Of Sonia By Sonia Rykiel

Scottish Fashion Awards Communication Award
Nick Haddow (Fashion Photographer)
Kay Barron (Journalist / Publisher)
Eva Arraggi (Fashion Stylist)
Morag Ross (Make-Up Artist)
Joe Mckenna (Fashion Stylist)

Nicola Finetti

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Designer show: Nicola Fenetti
Location: 96 Glenmore Road, Paddington
Time: 5.15pm, 19 April
Highs: A great location and fantastic weather.
Lows: Oddly flavoured cocktails. But after all, cocktails weren’t the focus on the agenda... ****************************
A pre-fashion week show has some special benefits. In particular – attendees are not yet exhausted after seeing 20+ other shows. You are undoubtedly more receptive to the surroundings; the clothes, the music, the models, the flashing cameras, etc... Another benefit is how patient people are when a show gets delayed. As a queue of fierce-looking fashion freaks line up next to us, we can’t help but noticing the senior ushers firmly pushing the media to their seats, in order to keep to the initial 5.15pm start-up time. It is now way past this time, but we don’t mind waiting. At +28C in the shade, a Sydney autumn day usually doesn’t get more pleasant than this. In keeping with Finetti’s Italian background, the location is perfect for the evening. The garden next to the Sara Roney Gallery brings to mind Mediterranean style landscaping - smaller sections within a great space, green, lush wall-creepers, and flawless topiary.

Post-structuralism is the name of Nicola Finetti’s theme for the evening. Inspired by proportions of the late 60’s, we also see influences from the 19^th century Art Noveau movement. Volume is a major theme – puffy shoulders and sleeves, crinkle balloon dresses, baby-doll dresses with op-art prints, and tulip skirts. The key colour palette is our favourite; somewhat traditional with shades in off-white, cream and black. Splashes of apricot, caramel and lilac add character to the elegant pieces for next summer. Overall it’s a wearable collection with one instant favourite – a white delicate crochet jacket with wide, stand-away collars.

MAFW on MSN

Sydney Fashion Week, here we go again... As if a daily, up-to-the-minute coverage at coolchiq wasn’t enough... IMG Media announced today that an exclusive coverage of Mercedes Australian Fashion Week will be available on MSN Video. Half a billion consumers are expected to take part of the videos. In addition to the coverage of MAFW, we’ll be able to get hold of the IMG Media produced programs on Olympus Fashion Week in New York through iTunes. Perfect for those who'd like to get that fashionably square-eyed look...

The 50's Look

Adam + Eve

Adam Lippes, the braind child behind Adam + Eve presented a fabulous range in New York for fall/winter 2006/2007. The images recall preppy public-school fashion, with guys and girls wearing stripy college tops and long tweed coats worn over simple black dresses. Lippes set out to create luxury basics, rather than follow trends, and the presentation featured fur vests, jackets with three-quarter sleeves and pieces that go well layering over longer sweaters. Lippes, a former Oscar de la Renta creative director, initially launched Adam + Eve in 2004 as an underwear and t-shirt line. The label is now sold in 8 countries and in over 125 stores. On-line you'll find the range at shopbop.com, Vivre.com, and at their own on-line shop adampluseve.com.

Mercedes Australian Fashion Week - MAFW

Camilla and Marc, Akira Isogawa, Nicola Finetti, World, FashionAssassin, Zambesi....MAFW’s show list is full of designer names, whose work we know by heart. With 14 days to go for Mercedes Australian Fashion Week 2006/2007, preparations are in full swing. Collections are brought in, invites are sent out, all the best models, stylists, and make up artists have set their agendas to fully booked for this week. Come next week and style enthusiasts all over the world will be gathered in Sydney, to witness the biggest annual fashion event in Asia pacific. If last year's event is anything to go by, we’ll be reporting from a week of exciting shows, talented designers, and totally mad fashion friends. So notebooks at the ready...
Images above from MAFW 2005/2006, Charlie Brown's Princess Charlotte show

Roland Mouret For Sale

Yesterday Vogue announced that Roland Mouret’s entire company archive is for sale. “...Sharai and Andre Meyers, who own the business which Mouret himself quit in October last year, have put the sample and pattern archive of all 12 collections since spring/summer 2002, up to and including the as-yet-undistributed autumn/winter 2006-7 collection, on the block...”

In Mouret’s designs we've seen strong influences from Cole Porter and Jean Cocteau, but with a modern twist in cut and choice of fabric. Asymmetry and cut versus draping, tiny waists and Forties style femininity have been corner stones in his fantastic collections. His designs are currently available at Net-a-porter at heavily discounted prices.

Rock The Kasbah

Apart from unfortunate fashion, what do Jessica Simpson, Keith Richards and Justin Hawkins all have in common? All the three of them have seen it all? OK, apart from that... Jessica Simpson, Keith Richards and Justin Hawkins are all in Sydney now. Jess and Ashley Simpson are attending the Australian MTV awards at Superdome. Keith Richards will be rocking with Mick & the rest at Rolling Stones' concert tonight, and The Darkness’ singer is holding a Luna Park gig on Thursday and Friday this week.

What's on At The Powerhouse Museum?

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What: Student Fashion Exhibition
When: on now - 12 June 2006
Where: Powerhouse Museum,
500 Harris Street, Ultimo, Sydney
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Sydney siders should get down to the Student Fashion Exhibition at Powerhouse Museum. You’ll get a glimpse of what the next generation of Australian fashion designers are up to. The display showcases six outfits by top graduating students from three of Sydney’s leading fashion design schools: Whitehouse Institute of Design; Fashion Design Studio, Sydney Institute of Technology, Ultimo; and the University of Technology, Sydney. Oh, and don’t forget Kylie, while you’re at it!

Featured above is a hand made lace appliquéd dress on nylon tulle designed by Micaela Ezra, winner of the Campari Fashion Awards in September 2005.

Kate Moss Does Biba

In London the world's most photographed supermodel has given serious attention to the business press. Giving a kick-start to the reborn label Biba, Kate Moss had the paparazzi close on her tail as she entered the Naihala Lasharie's Notting Hill showroom the other day. The labels original idea, a 'knock-down, throw-away-and-buy-another' philosophy, was based on the fact that the price of fashion was too high for many. Originated in 1964 from mail-order to a store at Kensington Church Street, and a second store close by, Biba became a way of life. Moody, nostalgic clothes and accessories in shades of brown, plum and grey were key players in the collections. Reading more of the label, the collaboration between Moss and Biba may seem obvious to begin with. Though the relaunch at Harrods & co, makes the Biba original idea pretty uneven.

Case Study In Platforms

From Left: Kors, Alexander Mcqueen, Jimmy Choo, Marc Jacobs

We’ve got a soft spot for this season’s chunky sandals. They’re extremely high, [surprisingly] easy to walk in, and wearing them makes you look a billion dollars (yes, they do, admit it). With this season’s platform rage, we can’t really rave enough of a shoe and why this makes an important wardrobe piece.

Second from left is a 'clog style' sandal with brown leather and pale wood. Alexander Mcqueen is the name behind them, which justifies a cost at US$695. But then again, you’ve got a pair of sandals that’ll make fashion slaves round the world go green of envy. So, what are you waiting for? Make us go green of envy!

What would life be without Marc Jabobs? Well it would be pretty dull, wouldn’t it? Jacobs is held responsible for far too many reviews on this blog (‘gorgeous’..., ‘divine’..., ‘superb’..., etc.). The denim strappy sandals to the right make us think fabulous straight away. Sandals have a suede heel and platform with espadrille layer on top. Because it’s Marc we find US$670 a justified cost. Where to buy them? Here!

Suzy Menkes on Piaggi

Mention Anna Piaggi and chances are you’ll think 'Eccentric', 'Italian', and 'Over the top'. We’ve talked about this woman a few times and it never ceases to amaze us how her style impacts on the fashion world. Piaggi’s amazing life, work and collection of hats are currently exhibited at The Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The exhibition, Fashion-ology, has received a good write-up since the opening in February. The most interesting read is Suzy Menkes’ article, published today in International Herald Tribune (you should all go and read it!). Named appropriately An editor with h-attitude, we’ll get a slight hint of Menkes' thoughts of her Italian journalist colleague.

Shyness Won't Stop Us

Like fashion, music is easy to love. Anyone remember these words? “...Shyness is nice; shyness can stop you from doing all the things in life that you’d like to...” Precisely, we’re talking about the genius music production Ask by Johnny Marr and Stephen Patrick Morrissey. Just like the song brings back flavours from 1985, we instantly get a déjà vu feeling looking at this jumpsuit. Stella McCartney has gone from good to phantasmagorical in a matter of a few years, and although her fragrances are a bit bland, her fashion approach we simply adore. Like ourselves, fashion-forwarders will see this jump suit as a piece of art – and now you can actually buy it here. That is, unless shyness is stopping you.

Posh Publications - That Extra Half an Inch

Gone are the days when Two become One and other dreadful songs ruined an after-work session over a glass of Chablis. Posh' membership in Spice Girls makes you instantly recall that strong weak voice and genuine love for fashion. Some would argue that this woman has no fashion sense at all... Though we’d love to get our hands on Posh’ version of the do’s and don’ts of fashion. So thumbs up on the release of this fashion and beauty bible, where she’ll guide us on how to look extra-super-fabulous. Fashion journalist Hadley Freeman will help her fashionable advice sound appealing. The book, published by Penguin, is due to be available at the end of this year. The content includes practical style advice on fashion and beauty, as well as exclusive interviews with favourite designers Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana. Named That Extra Half an Inch, we’re sure Posh knows a thing or two about the sheer essence of stiletto strutting...

Fashion Aficionados Unite

Fashionistas out there may have noticed a few changes on coolchiq recently... You can now link to the most exclusive shopping sites in cyber space. Convenient, eh? Oh, and more importantly, through coolchiq you'll have access to loads of special offers on these sites. So Fashion Aficionados - happy shopping!