RAFW - Alice McCall

Zips are the new buttons. We’re jumping to the conclusion here simply by looking at Camilla and Marc, Jessie Hill and Dhini to name but a few. So when zips are the new buttons, then neon is undoubtedly the new black.

Yesterday afternoon in the Cargo Hall, Alice McCall included both zips and neon to balance the grey and timid tones in her “Welcome to the Dollhouse” collection. McCall’s show was a tight, smart display of fresh and youthful looks. Acid lime appeared on dresses, shoes and accessories in a variety of different ways – as inserted stitched patchworks, as zig-zagged lines on high heels, as bold giant plastic waist belts.

But as ‘cool’ and streetwise as this collection was, there was also a refreshing playful side to McCall’s show - geeky sunglasses, stripy hooded dresses, and dungarees. How could you not love this woman?

RAFW - Jessie Hill

While launching her first RTW show at New York Fashion Week 2005, Jessie Hill’s debut in the home-arena took place yesterday at RAFW 2007.

Fuelled by the 1982 film classic “Blade Runner”, Hill’s work presented an eclectic mix of Ready-To-Wear meets couture in a European style. True to the inspirational theme the pieces were daring and feminine, but always with a dark twist, which provoked the feeling of a Sin City woman. Dresses were tailored with tight pleats, and fabrics such as Japanese micro-fibre cotton and satin, dominated the show. Hill had mostly worked with solid colours in cream, white, silver-grey and black, but some pale aztec prints were used to create a worn-out, rebellious effect.

More spectacular pieces had complex designs such as a lizard-collar, very cool. Hill's pocket dress in silver-grey – literally covered in zipped, round pockets across the lower part of the body – was quite exquisite.

The whole collection felt new and avant-garde, some pieces you’d expect to see in Japan. To complement the fabulous film-noir look, the make-up artist had done a fantastic job with sharp dark eyes and black glossy nails. We absolutely loved the show and we're sure that Rick Deckard would have loved it too.

RAFW - Matthew Eager

Matthew Eager's show presented clean lines with no accessories, to make a feature of the minimalistic approach that Eager had in mind. Super-wide linen trousers looked quite elegant on the tall models. High-waisted ra-ra skirts, and dresses in knee lengths came in silver- embellished thick fabric. The boxy coats and bolero jackets were striking, but felt quite demure rather than young and edgy. Colours were in sections white, silver and grey, and with splashes of deep turquoise, and acid green. With the many sleek dresses, this collection presented the most sophisticated range throughout the week. Read also Rebekah Van Druten's, (ABC), interview with Matthew Eager before the show.

RAFW - Josh Goot

For a designer that’s been described as the most successful [Australian] fashion exports since Colette Dinnigan, it’s hard to imagine that Josh Goot only has 3 years of runway experience since debuting at MAFW 2004. At that time it was a print-heavy streetwear brand called Platform, which later on evolved into the famous Josh Goot label. His key words of “tailored comfort”, which are wardrobe classics, constructed in cotton/jersey fabrics, have given inspiration to many new emerging local designers. Today, the appreciation of Goot’s design was prevalent across the audience.

The venue, a massive industrial warehouse location in Redfern, was a far cry from last year's CBD-located show. Undoubtedly a more Goot-like location, with its industrial look of giant rusty pipes, that came crawling across the ceiling. From the loudspeakers flowed creepy electronic noise – it might as well have been the film location from Alien, for all we know. What added to the whole ‘space oddity’ experience, were the senior ushers, appropriately dressed in smoky silver uniforms.

This year Goot had worked with strong bright colours to complement the re-occurring futuristic in his work. Dresses with asymmetrical lines in yellow, purple, and pale lilac were presented first. The garments felt sporty, but chic – though with a few surprises in store. Had Goot taken a holiday in Norway for his inspiration? Well, there were certainly elements that suggested a cross-country skiing influence in his bright leg-hugging pants. New features for this year were the contrasting edges in bright orange, that brought the sober metallic dresses to life. The long, flowy capes in cerise gave a nice elf-like effect, but how and when would you wear such a garment?

It was great to see that Goot had kept the loved classics – the ultra-thin trench-coat, the baggy pants, the cigarette skirt, which still hadn’t given way for any raised hemlines this year. While working both with hues in silver and gold in this collection, Goot did a fantastic job that we can’t wait to see close up.

RAFW - Arabella Ramsay

We swapped Nicola Finetti for Arabella Ramsay this evening, but it was a difficult choice as we're big Finetti-lovers and know little of Arabella Ramsay. It's also a big ask to judge a label’s potential, without a prior viewing.

What was on stage was lovely, very sweet and left a more-ish feeling, which is always a good sign. But there were more than a few international references, that were so obviously ‘influenced’ by other designers that it couldn't possibly be just sheer coincidence.

We probably weren't the first in the audience, to reflect on the banana necklace at the opening of the show. After all, didn’t Chloe 2001 do exactly that? But the show went on, and the denim section covered shorts, waistcoats, and dresses which reminded us of Karen Walker. Outfits in matching petroleum green were followed by a silky section, that brought back Chloe in mind again. We absolutely loved the straw 'riding hats', though we immediately thought of Balenciaga autumn 2006. Still, thumbs-up for this show though.

RAFW - State of Georgia

Formed by Georgia Hall, a former fashion model, who recently launched the label State of Georgia. The collection featured baby doll dresses, high-waisted mini skirts, ancle-length 'Laura Ashley dresses', solid colours, patterns, pucci-inspired prints, gold, silver, etc, etc... you get the idea.

With such an over-kill it’s difficult to have any opinion about what this was about. Oh, did we mention the leder-hosen? Well at least they played Dolly Parton in the show.

Ksubi and Erin Wasson

While in between fashion shows, Simon Lock, Managing Director of IMG Fashion Asia Pacific (not actually in this picture), had an informal chat with the guys at Tsubi Ksubi and American super-model Erin Wasson. Erin, who will be strutting down the runway late, tomorrow evening at Ksubi, mentioned she looked forward to taking a front-row seat at Josh Goot's show tomorrow morning.

RAFW - Shakuhachi

This morning it was down to Shakuhachi to show off her work for the Australian SS 2007/08. Fashion designer Jessie White has been a key player in the industry for 8 years, and in recent years she’s primarily focused on tailored garments for an age group of 16-25.

The show opened up with hooded baggy jersey dresses in strong colours – neon blue, orange and fluorescent pink. Then came playsuits in stretchy cotton. Berets appeared throughout the show, oddly enough even on the bikini girls no less. An interesting Australian take on the parkas was presented more than once in the show – a short-sleeved version in light nylon. Shakuhachi had jumped on the futuristic hype and featured both skirts, dresses and tops in metallic hues. A glittery casino jacket worn with a t-shirt dress, started off the more tacky part of the show, and the grand finale was a few sequin dresses featuring a mish-mash of weird colourful cubes. While ticking of the recent must-trends – metallic, thigh-baring hemlines and loose, over sized shapes - there’s no doubt this teenage-like collection will sell. As long as it stays Down Under.

RAFW - Frisoni Finetti

Frisoni Finetti was created by Nicola Finetti and Fernando Frisoni. The show was men’s only fashion – pretty refreshing actually (although at coolchiq, we don’t focus so much on men’s fashion). Both men appeared at the end for the usual designer promenade. We’re not sure if Nicola was the driver for Fernando, or vice versa. Either way, there was clearly a cross-pollination of ideas in one direction or the other. All the styles were extremely cool, and well designed in terms of basic (navy, haematite, black and white) masculine colours. Not formal menswear, but rather, smart streetwise threads. Contemporary fabrics – crisp cotton, jersey, metallic nylon – used in cutting edge design. Not the type of stuff the average Sydney surf dude would usually wear, but then, there isn’t much other competition in this niche area of style in Australia. Not every guy wants to wear Quicksilver printed across their exposed arse cleavage (or Rip Curl, Volcom, etc.) for that matter. This will be more expensive than the surf ranges, but wouldn’t it be great if guys start wearing this level of style more commonly? Thumbs up Frisoni Finetti!

RAFW - Zambesi

What was the focus for all the snappy cameras pre-show at Zambesi? Well, we think Dita von Teese, on the front row, had something to do with the extravaganza. Though the burlesque Queen was as cute and innocent (looking) as ever, her front row neighbours looked more intrigued to be positioned next to the ex-stripper. It was quite a surprise to see the real slim, prim, doll-like Dita, rather than the MAC make-up advert Dita, which, while still attractive, is curvaceous, with a colossal chest.

The show featured primarily boyish silhouettes, with layering, and shirt-dresses that reminded us of school cleaning ladies, rather than leading edge, hot street fashionistas. Worn in the right way, they could look really cool, but this isn’t something you’d throw on without forward planning. Finally, most of the silky tunics carried graphic design prints - very gothic like an old friend of Dita's.

RAFW - LIFEwithBIRD

Little did Bridget and Nicholas know when they first met, that it would be the start of a fashion label, about to be on everyone’s lips in just a short period of time. Since being launched, “LIFEwithBIRD” has been snapped up by Sportsgirl to deliver a limited edition collection due in July 2007. The designer duo, including Alice McCall’s sister Bridget [McCall] and Nicholas Van Messner, co-formed the label that is now stocked at uber-cool Incu.

Early on, the girls sported soft ultra-thin cotton, and designs with side-winged t-shirts, that had “SHOUT” printed across the chest. To follow, were thigh-baring dresses in nude tones, some with gathered hems and asymmetrical pleats. Like a few other shows, there were sporty influences, though here they were much more unique – quite edgy.

Plenty of details on each garment, nicely structured, to add interest to an otherwise ‘simple’ design. Grey leggings weren’t just grey – they had inserts of silver fabric in shiny material, zig-zagged up the legs. Sweatshirts had penguin arms, and chunky bracelets, made of plastic and metal, were jammed half-way up the arm, as though part of a robotic installation. Giant shopping bags appeared throughout the show – perhaps a place for the gym gear to go? What we saw was quite likeable, and if life really is like this with bird, then we wouldn’t mind seeing a little more of it.

RAFW - Bowie

Last year at Bowie we drew parallel lines to the film “Master and Commander”. This year the references were far from nautical, but more “Little Red Riding Hood starring as an extra in an adult movie”. Champagne, black and red dominated on see-through chiffon dresses, that looked like exclusive lingerie in a Louisiana bordello. The girls had been ‘styled’ in red velvet ribbons to complement their big wavy hair.

Apart from strapless cigarette dresses, there were a few flimsy lace dresses. Perhaps the collection had seen the inside of South Fork Ranch back in the seventies? Well, certainly Sue-Ellen and Pam would have loved it all. The very fit-looking boys wore overalls so camp-looking, that only at Camp David could they get away with it. The black & white printed t-shirts were kinda cool though, but all rather déjà vu.

What else completed the nostalgic vibes? Well how about a little Duran Duran and Prince from the loudspeakers.

RAFW - Melanie Cutfield

Melanie Cutfield started out at the Fashion Design School in New Zealand. Like many other designers, she moved to London and America to seek inspiration, but has since moved back to Australia and her roots.

While playing a strong Arabic beat on full blast, Cutfield opened the show with a few dresses that were in sections of cream/white/navy stripes. The dresses, constructed from terrific heavy silk, were so long they literally dragged on the floor, and considering the height of the models, we’d be amused to see how these looked on ‘normal’ women. The dramatic Arabic rhythms were followed by a more upbeat contemporary section, using cream and white cotton pieces. Simple lurex tank tops, worn with soft pleated skirts, made the cute sports hats look like there was a game of tennis about to start.

Cutfield’s girls wore extremely high heels – even for a runway show – and the inevitable happened. It was in no way a slight upon the poor girl who tumbled to the deck and struggled to stand up again. She’s now up there with Naomi Campbell’s catwalk of (fallen) fame.

RAFW - WRTW 1

First out in the Women's Ready-To -Wear 1 Show (WRTW1), was Dhini, a Melborne-based label, run by designer Dhini Pararajasingham. Dhini studied fashion design in Tokyo, but ended up in London for a few years, before coming back to Australia again. The show featured tailored, high-waist pants combined with funky hooded jackets, which came with loose ‘bits’ hanging off the garments. The majority of the collection was quite interesting, but lacked completeness all the way, with a few pieces that somehow didn’t quite seem to fit in. We can see the potential for Dhini, but would like to see more from this label before we give our final nod of approval.

High Tea With Mrs Woo did their usual gig of unique combinations of West meets Eastern charm. ‘ShowOff’ had very little to show off about unfortunately – all very bland stuff. Funky Silence is Golden played on the French theme with navy influences, including stripy off-the-shoulder cotton dresses, all cute with black bum-pockets. The girls all wore très chic berets to add to the continental feel of the collection. We absolutely loved the cool black and white brogues.

RAFW - camilla and marc

The Sydney based designer duo camilla and marc has a lot to be proud of since their launch in 2003. Scoring the grand opening of the Sydney Fashion Week is a well-recognised accomplishment, but we’re also referring to the recent hype over camilla and marc’s excellent write-up, on the front cover of Women's Wear Daily. OK, Patty Huntington may be to blame for that, though we’re more used to reading Patty’s dry commentary, than hearing her singing the praises of fashion designers.

This sunny Sydney morning an impeccably well-dressed crowd had gathered at the Sydney Theatre company. Among the audience were a mix of striking Japanese, French, and Swedish designs, although plenty of camilla and marc pieces stood out to pay tribute to the show we were about to see. The collection, which featured white, cream and pale-grey repeatedly, brought thoughts of sixties style to mind. Dresses came in either daring thigh-high or ancle-lengths, but with a modern twist featuring thick zips running down the middle of the backs, creating ruler straight lines along the dresses. A couple of neon-blue dresses wowed the audience and felt very up to the minute.

It’s wonderful to see that camilla and marc have been picked up by our online bible Net-A-Porter recently. Although, this can suggest the label will go onwards and upwards to London or New York, meaning an end to their shows in their own ‘back yard’ so to speak. Will this be the last year camilla and marc grace us with their presence, following in the footsteps of Sass & Bide, Willow et al? Let’s hope not.

Colours: White, cream, pale grey
Silhouttes: Clean geometric lines, a-shaped dresses
Fabrics: Knits, silk, leather
Music: Rolling Stones, underground
Inspiration: French lace, futurism and bold masculine shapes
Particular garments: cobolt blue, hooded chiffon over sized tops